The Rise of Gender

Apr 27, 2023

Discussions around gender neutrality and LGBTQ+ rights have been evolving globally, including in India, where significant developments have occurred over the past decade about recognising and protecting the rights of transgender individuals. In 2014, the Supreme Court of India acknowledged transgender persons as a third gender and affirmed their right to self-identification.

This growing acceptance of gender neutrality has not only impacted society but also the fashion industry, giving rise to gender-neutral clothing as a means to foster inclusivity. With the increased recognition and understanding of diverse gender identities, traditional norms have been challenged, leading to a transformation in fashion design, marketing and consumption. Consequently, the global gender-neutral clothing market is projected to experience a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 6.5 per cent from 2021 to 2030, reflecting the expanding demand for more inclusive fashion.

In India, the demand for genderless clothing is concentrated in metropolitan cities and regions with a progressive and inclusive mindset. As per experts, Mumbai, the fashion capital, has a vibrant market for gender-neutral clothing, supported by fashion designers and brands promoting inclusive designs. Bengaluru, with its young and cosmopolitan population and thriving LGBTQ+ community, embraces experimental and inclusive fashion, contributing to the demand. Delhi, the fashion hub and a mix of traditional and modern influences, attracts fashion-conscious individuals to appreciate genderless clothing, showcased in fashion weeks and events. Pune, with its progressive outlook and significant student and professional population, seeks genderless options. Hyderabad, with an evolving fashion industry and an inclusive culture, sees an increase in fashion-forward individuals embracing genderless fashion. While demand is higher in these cities, the acceptance of gender diversity is spreading fast, indicating expected growth in other cities and regions of the country soon.

According to designer Kunal Anil Tanna, although gender-neutral clothing has been a part of Indian culture since ancient times, the contemporary version is a relatively recent phenomenon in India. The country is still adjusting and embracing this concept. While there is a segment of people who are open to and interested in exploring unisex styles, the majority of available gender-neutral clothing in India is primarily limited to sportswear for now.

Mriga Kapadiya and Amrit Kumar, Co-founders of NorBlack NorWhite, believe that people rarely fall into prescriptive boxes. They exist within the grey and this notion of the spectrum and a rejection of the binary is what has led them to create their vivid line and the conceptual thinking behind it.

Fashion designers and brands are now creating collections that blur the lines between menswear and womenswear, focusing on unisex or gender-neutral designs. These garments often feature relaxed silhouettes, minimalistic styles and neutral colour palettes that appeal to a broad range of individuals. The emphasis is on creating versatile, comfortable and inclusive pieces that can be worn by anyone, regardless of their gender identity.

There are several designers in India who are into gender-neutral designs. For example, Parul Gupta is designing gender-neutral shirts, trousers, dresses, skirts and shirt dresses with her brand Yuga. Hansika Chhabria has founded a gender-neutral label called One Less with the objective to make sustainable fashion accessible in India.

One of the designers Shyma Shetty, Co-founder of Huemn believes both men and women are embracing the trend of sharing wardrobes and styles, signalling an exciting evolution in the world of fashion

Moreover, the fashion industry's increased representation and visibility of gender non-conforming models, influencers and public figures have played a crucial role in challenging societal norms and promoting the acceptance of gender-neutral clothing. This representation helps to normalise and celebrate diverse gender expressions and encourages individuals to explore fashion without conforming to traditional gender expectations.

Social commerce has revolutionised the way retailers interact with consumers. Platforms such as Instagram, Facebook and TikTok have become powerful tools for showcasing fashion and connecting with customers. GenZ, social media influencers and content creators have played a significant role in promoting inclusivity and advocating for gender-neutral fashion.

Through the following means, social commerce has pushed retailers to pay attention to the gender-neutral segment:

This emerging fashion domain often embraces androgynous and minimalist aesthetics, focusing on versatile silhouettes and clean cuts.

Loose and oversized clothing items, such as boxy shirts, wide-leg trousers and oversized blazers are popular choices within the gender-neutral segment. These silhouettes allow for comfort and ease of movement. Gender-fluid designs blur the lines between traditional men's and women's fashion. This may include pieces like tailored suits with feminine details, flowing tunics or unisex jumpsuits.

This segment also embraces the comfort and style of athleisure and streetwear. Joggers, hoodies, oversized T-shirts and sneakers are commonly incorporated into gender-neutral outfits.

When it comes to colour preferences, gender-neutral tends to gravitate towards a range of shades that are not strongly associated with any specific gender. While personal style and individual preferences may vary, earthy tones like beige, camel, khaki and olive are popular choices, Monochromatic palettes such as black, white and shades of grey are widely embraced. Soft pastels, muted tones and subtle pops of colour like dusty pink, lavender or sage green often add a touch of vibrancy to gender-neutral outfits.

Some big brands in the industry have understood the importance of unisex clothing and are very adaptive to penetrating into the ideology of the youngsters and their demands. For instance, Being Human has launched a quirky collection named ‘Blur’ which caters to the unisex category where the collection can be worn by any gender.

Similarly, The Souled Store and Bewakoof have also developed their collections to cater to this specific segment of customers. These brands have recognised the demand for products that resonate with the preferences and tastes of this particular group.

The leading gender-neutral clothing brands in India are:

Popular Indian designers who have embraced gender fluidity include names like Mriga Kapadiya who emphasises the universal appeal of tie-dye, describing it as a must-have for both men and women, bringing joy and vibrant colours to any outfit. Sahib Dang observes that inclusivity is no longer a passing trend, as more brands actively embrace it and think critically about its representation in fashion. Isha Ahluwalia emphasises that clothing serves as a gateway for self-expression and reflects the evolving world around us. This collective sentiment highlights the transformative power of gender-neutral fashion and its potential to redefine the narrative of self-identity and personal style.

Leading Indian designers who are shaping the gender-neutral clothing landscape are:

There are several international designers and brands which recognise the importance of breaking free from traditional gender norms and they are making a conscious effort to create fashion clothing lines that are accessible and appealing to individuals of all genders.

Many such Indian and global designers are creating ripples when it comes to widespread promotion and rise in demand for gender-neutral clothing and are prepping up the fashion industry for a more inclusive and diverse future.